The China Mail - Tale of love, passion behind Mexico's 'boundary-pushing' Quintonil

Quintonil, which opened in 2012 in the upscale Mexico City neighborhood of Polanco, already boasted two Michelin stars.

Now it is also ranked number three by the Michelin Guide's British rival, "The World's 50 Best Restaurants," which praised its "boundary-pushing" cuisine.

"Focused on fresh, local ingredients and traditional Mexican flavors and techniques weaved into modern preparations, it is fast becoming a classic," it said.

Named after an aromatic plant from the southern state of Oaxaca, Quintonil stands behind only Maido in Lima and Asador Etxebarri in Spain in the list.

At the reception, Alejandra Flores -- one half of the charismatic couple behind Quintonil -- gives a taste of the hospitality and kindness for which Mexicans are known.

"I truly believe in the saying, 'He who does not live to serve does not serve to live,'" she said.

Service "must be a dance" or even an "embrace," added Flores, who studied hospitality management in Switzerland.

- Intimate, not ostentatious -

In the two small dining rooms, next to a counter seating area that opens onto the kitchen, around a dozen tables receive customers from around the world.

It is in this setting -- more intimate than ostentatious -- that Quintonil has gradually gained global recognition, much like Mexico City, which is attracting an increasing number of visitors from the United States and Europe.

Understated, like his restaurant, head chef Jorge Vallejo used to work on cruise ships before returning to Mexico City where he joined another renowned restaurant, Pujol.

It was there that he met Flores, his wife.

Located a few streets away, Pujol has long been the benchmark for new Mexican gastronomy.

In 2022, "The World's 50 Best Restaurants" ranked chef Enrique Olvera's establishment fifth, while Quintonil was in ninth place.

The student has since overtaken his teacher, but feels a debt of gratitude: Pujol's elevation of Mexican cuisine to another level has inspired others, Vallejo said.

"Twenty years ago, people knew very little about what Mexican gastronomy really is as we know it today," he added.

Today, more foreigners are familiar with a diverse cuisine that ranges from street tacos to fine dining, in both cases using local products such as corn and tomatoes.

- 'Close to my heart' -

Quintonil combines seasonal ingredients -- in July it was asparagus, carrots, and mushrooms -- with traditional Mexican staples, such as mole, a sauce made with spices and cocoa.

"Right now, a dish that's close to my heart is vegetable mole. We prepare it with asparagus," enthused Vallejo, happy that his discovery allows for a lighter sauce.

Quintonil's ingredients are "98 percent Mexican," including the wines.

The exceptions are caviar, one type of fish, and olive oil, said Vallejo, who favors local sources.

"I have a good friend whose family grows white beans" in the northwestern state of Sinaloa, he said.

Quintonil has mastered the art of blending traditional Mexican flavors with contemporary cuisine, according to the "50 Best" list, citing the example of "tamales of duck pibil with elote cream," a corn-based sauce.

The award has been decided since 2002 by more than a thousand "culinary experts," including chefs, specialist journalists and restaurant owners.

While French chefs question its legitimacy, accusing it of opacity, in the case of Quintonil the verdict seems unanimous.

According to the Michelin Guide, Quintonil's tasting menu is "constantly evolving" with "delights such as crab and shards of blue corn tostada arranged with a vivid pipian verde enhanced with untraditional elements like galangal, lemongrass, and makrut lime."

Quintonil's cuisine "is an enticing melding of excellent local product, impressive execution, and great creativity to produce refined compositions," it said.

B.Clarke--ThChM