The China Mail - Sofia Coppola's love letter to Marc Jacobs debuts at Venice

"Marc by Sofia," which had its out-of-competition world premiere at the prestigious festival on the Lido, is an intimate look at Jacobs, with whom the director of "Lost in Translation" and "Marie Antoinette" has been friends for about 30 years.

Coppola arrived on the red carpet in a black lace gown with sequins over ivory silk, while Jacobs accessorised a black suit jacket and leather pants with a black bow in his hair and dangerously long blue fingernails.

"Corny as this sounds, I feel like this was really a beautiful love letter, to me, my work and to our friendship," Jacobs told Italian broadcaster Rai on the red carpet.

Jacobs, head designer of his namesake fashion brand, was the creative director of Louis Vuitton from 1997 to 2014, when he revitalised the storied luggage brand by introducing ready-to-wear and imparting a streetwear vibe popular with younger buyers.

The film follows Jacobs as he prepares for his Spring 2024 women's show at New York Fashion Week, and includes interviews, archive footage and behind-the-scenes glimpses of his design studio.

"I really don't have any idea at all," Jacobs admits at the start of the film, as he embarks on his next season of designs.

"We are not very linear in the way we work," he says of his studio, where swatches of fabric and samples are piled on his desk.

- Personal but not 'intrusive' -

Coppola, who had never before made a documentary, said the process felt personal for her, almost as if she were making a "home movie".

"It was really a personal portrait of my friend. It wasn't a marketing piece or a commercial. It was really a sincere small project that I would just come to the office, and it was really important for me to show Marc as a creative person in his process," the director told journalists ahead of the film's premiere.

"I wanted it to feel personal but never be intrusive," added Coppola, who is seen briefly at various times during the film.

The film documents the fashion show itself -- marked by leggy models in oversize wigs and Twiggy-like eyelashes on the catwalk -- as well as the stress backstage leading up to showtime.

"I had never been backstage before. To see that energy and stress and excitement right before the show. And then to be able to film the show with these long lenses in a more cinematic way. And just to see the beauty and the detail of all the work that went into the show," Coppola said.

The film comes as French luxury conglomerate LVMH is reportedly looking to sell the Marc Jacobs brand. The Wall Street Journal has estimated the company's worth at $1 billion.

J.Thompson--ThChM