The China Mail - Demna to bow out at Balenciaga in Paris Haute Couture Week

Demna, known for his daring work as well as controversies during his decade-long stint at Kering-owned Balenciaga, will unveil his final collection on Wednesday in what is expected to be one of the highlights of the week.

Not to be confused with Paris Fashion Week, Haute Couture Week takes place exclusively in Paris — in January for spring-summer collections and July for autumn-winter.

It is a uniquely French event dedicated to handcrafted, one-of-a-kind creations made to wear at red carpets, galas, and other high-profile events.

The 44-year-old Demna, acclaimed by millennials and Gen-Z stars from Kim Kardashian to British pop sensation Charli XCX, has been tasked with reviving the flagging fortunes of Gucci by Kering CEO Francois-Henri Pinault.

After multiplying sales at Balenciaga, where he made headlines with a $2,000 "Ikea" bag and a $1,800 so-called "trash pouch", he is currently being honoured with an exhibition titled "Balenciaga by Demna" at Kering’s Paris headquarters.

He will be succeeded by Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, who is set to present his first collection in October during Paris Women’s Fashion Week.

As usual, Schiaparelli will open Couture Week, followed later in the day by shows from Iris Van Herpen —- returning after a year-long break -— as well as Georges Hobeika, Imane Ayissi, Rahul Mishra, Julie de Libran, and Giambattista Valli.

After Demna's farewell on Wednesday, Belgian designer Glenn Martens will find himself in the spotlight as he unveils a first collection for Maison Margiela following his appointment in January to succeed British designer John Galliano.

American designer Michael Rider, who succeeded Hedi Slimane as chief designer at Celine, unveiled his first collection for the luxury French brand on Sunday, outside the official calendar.

– Absences –

On Tuesday, Chanel will present the final collection created by its in-house design studio, the fifth since Virginie Viard’s sudden departure in June 2024.

Her successor, the discreet and highly respected Franco-Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy, was appointed in December and will showcase his first collection for Chanel in October.

Up to Thursday, 27 houses will unveil their creations, including Elie Saab, Armani Prive, Aelis, Viktor&Rolf, Adeline Andre, and Dubai-based Rami Al Ali who is set to become the first Syrian to join the official calendar.

Following a spate of major changes at fashion houses, some absences will stand out, particularly Dior's.

After a highly anticipated debut during the men’s Fashion Week on June 27, newly appointed artistic director Jonathan Anderson is holding back his first haute couture collection for January 2026.

Named in early June to lead Dior’s women’s and couture lines as well, the 40-year-old Northern Irishman has become the first person since founder Christian Dior himself to oversee all three branches of the house.

Jean Paul Gaultier is also missing.

Dutch designer Duran Lantink, appointed as the brand’s permanent artistic director in April, will make his debut during Women’s Fashion Week in October.

Since stepping back in 2020, Jean Paul Gaultier has handed over the reins of his couture collections to a series of guest designers, including Olivier Rousteing, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Haider Ackermann, and Simone Rocha.

The week will wrap up with a show by Swiss designer Kevin Germanier.

M.Chau--ThChM