The China Mail - Jonathan Anderson brings new twist to Dior women with Paris debut

The show, held in the Tuileries Garden in central Paris, was one of the most highly anticipated moments of the Spring-Summer 2026 Fashion Week, alongside Matthieu Blazy's debut at Chanel next Monday.

Anderson, a 41-year-old celeb favourite with a stellar reputation, was appointed in June by the LVMH-owned brand to replace Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, just weeks after taking over Dior menswear.

Wednesday's collection contained a range of styles, from bold re-imaginings of classic Dior overcoats and trouser suits matched with long capes, to easy everyday items such as short denim skirts.

"Striking in its modernity, youthful energy and elegant ease, the collection reimagined Dior's most iconic codes through Anderson's singular lens," said Simon Longland, lead fashion buyer at upmarket London department store Harrods in a statement sent to AFP.

The power-packed front row included a constellation of A-listers from Johnny Depp, Jenna Ortega to one of the new sponsored faces of the brand, Mikey Madison.

While reviving Spanish label Loewe in his previous job, Anderson designed major stage outfits for Beyonce and Rihanna and provided the film costumes for Italian director Luca Guadagnino's "Challengers" and "Queer".

The first Dior designer to oversee womenswear, menswear and haute couture since Christian Dior himself appeared at the end of Wednesday's runway display in jeans and a navy blue t-shirt to acknowledge the applause briefly.

For his first menswear collection, Anderson drew inspiration from 19th-century gothic, with capes, tailcoats and tweeds, waistcoats and Victorian high collars and cravats.

He declared afterwards that his intention was to "decode and recode Dior" rather than revolutionise its look, out of respect for its former designers.

- New faces -

A flurry of new appointments at major labels have lent this Paris Fashion Week momentous significance.

Around 10 different brands including Chanel, Balenciaga, Loewe and Jean Paul Gaultier will unveil debut collections from their new creative designers.

As well as propelling younger new talents to the top of the industry, the changes in the industry are seen as a chance to help boost demand at a tricky time for the luxury clothing market.

High-end clothing groups face slowing demand from wealthy clients in China, US tariffs on exports, and general uncertainty over the global economy.

T.Wu--ThChM